Hydra Greece Travel Guide 2024

Author’s Note: I first visited Hydra Greece on a day trip from Athens. But it was clear it just wasn’t enough time and so I have returned for longer stays – each one longer than the last! I love the music and poetry of Leonard Cohen and I’m sure you can feel a tiny part of his soul here. I’ve loved sharing with you my favorite places to find on the island, as well as its best food, culture, films and novels.

Hydra is one of the most special islands in Greece with a unique history. Here’s a comprehensive Hydra Greece travel guide that includes information about the 18 top landmarks, beaches, restaurants, and things to do, and as well as some locals’ tips from around Hydra Island.  

Hydra is a one-town-only island with a peculiar geography and no traffic. It is very close to Athens and has major historical significance in Greece for its role in Greece’s national past, for its maritime history, and as a center of the swinging 60s in the Mediterranean.

It is also a place with rocky beaches, has a lively cosmopolitan atmosphere, and is a fantastic place to be both in the summer and off-season.

Things to Know Before Traveling to Hydra Greece

Map of Hydra Greece

How to get to Hydra Island, Greece

Hydra is a small Greek island in the Saronic Islands group in the Saronic Gulf of the Aegean Sea.

It is one of the closest islands to Athens, making it a perfect destination for a small Greek island hopping tour that includes other islands like Spetses, Poros, and Aegina.

Athens to Hydra ferry (1.5h) is the most common way of reaching Hydra, although an option for a crossing directly from the Peloponnese mainland Greece is available from a place called Metochi (regular 20-minute rides operating throughout the day).

I always organize my Ferry tickets via Ferryhopper.com

History and Culture of Hydra Island Greece

The importance of Hydra in Greece can hardly be overstated.

Due to its turbulent history and favorable position on the seafarers’ routes, the island became the residence of many wealthy ship-owning families, who gave all their possessions away to finance the Greek War of Independence.

The island’s main town, Hydra town, is a fine example of insular architecture, with its narrow streets, whitewashed buildings, and stone mansions with red-tiled roofs.

Many of these mansions were built by wealthy ship-owners during the 18th and 19th centuries, and some have been converted into museums, art galleries, and cultural centers.

The island’s cultural scene is vibrant and diverse, with numerous events and festivals taking place throughout the year:

The Hydra Arts Festival, held every summer, features performances and exhibitions by local and international artists.

The Miaoulia Festival during late June, celebrates the island’s naval history with traditional music, dance, and fireworks.

The Hydra Film Festival, held in September, showcases Greek and international films in stunning outdoor venues.

The permanent exhibition of Jeff Koons adorns Hydra’s waterfront since 2022.

Old-Money Mykonos: Island of Hydra layout and lifestyle

Hydra is one of the very few totally pedestrian islands in Greece, a place where no vehicles are allowed (not even scooters or bicycles).

This means an instant feeling of bliss and relaxation the moment you step out the ferry and hear the island’s vibe consisting of lively Hydra’s harbor chatter, donkeys’ hooves on the marble cobblestone streets and frequent cliff-jumper’s enthusiastic shouts.    

Since Hydra is a one-town island, you don’t need to organize transportation to get around.

This adds to the island’s charm, although the hilly terrain can be challenging for those with mobility issues, and you should be prepared to walk up and down steep steps and slopes.

Bring comfortable flat shoes with some grip.

No cars means the streets are ruled by cats, donkeys and mules.

However, for some of the steeper sections of the town you can take a donkey ride, and for visiting secluded beaches you can take water taxis.

Hiking routes cover this beautiful Greek island and offer opportunities for fantastic vistas.

Hydra was one of the largest artists’ expat communities of the Mediterranean during the 20th century.

Many famous philhellenes (Greece lovers)stayed and wrote about Hydra. They inclue Henry Miller, Paddy (Mihalis) Fermor and Lawrence Durrell.

Leonard Cohen owned a house on the island, as did the Australian writers Charmian Clift and George Johnston.

If you’re a fan of Leonard Cohen, you will realize now where his love of Greek instruments came from and that they featured more in his work at the end of his life.

During the 60s and 70s the who’d who of the international jet set were spending time in Hydra, including John Lennon, the Rolling Stones, Onassis and Callas, Rex Harrison, Eric Clapton, Peter Ustinov, Queen Soraya of Iran, Jackie Kennedy and many others.

This is why Hydra is the Greek answer to Cannes and Capri, with global royals, celebrities and artists still rubbing shoulders with Athens’ elite and local fishermen.

With a reputation as one of the hubs of the Med’s high life, Hydra is the old-money Mykonos.    

Best Things to Do in Hydra

Despite its size, only one town and no roads, Hydra offers a range of activities for visitors of all ages and interests.

From beaches with crystal-clear waters and stunning scenery to watersports, historical landmarks and museums, simple and gourmet food experiences, and spots for the best of summer’s dolce far niente, you won’t want for something to do here.  

1. Wander the back alleys

The town of Hydra grew organically, which in the Mediterranean means a lot of wonderful cobbled backstreets, hidden squares, mazes of narrow arched streets, a communal water spring and plenty of lush Aegean flora around the town.

Like most of the Greek Islands, Hydra town starts from a busy fishing port (Hydra harbour) with its colorful fishing boats and spreads further into the hilly mainland.

From there it divides into neighborhoods of many colorful names, including my favorite – “the good wells“ (Kala Pigadia).

Along the way you’ll be able to find the Rafalias family 19th century pharmacy, abandoned houses, a hidden soccer pitch, small churches, pastry and gelato shops and the true rulers of the island of Hydra, its cats.

Visit the museums, mansions, and monasteries

Hydra is full of history, both of Greece and the Mediterranean.

Make sure not to miss some of the island’s museums to get to know how this small barren island:

became a shipping empire that was granted special free trade permits from both the Ottoman and Russian Empires,
traded with the Napoleon, and
went broke after successfully financing the Greek War of Independence, which led to the country’s independence from the Ottoman Empire.

2. Hydra Historical Archives Museum

I am almost always blown away by how good small Greek museums are and I thought this one was fascinating.

This museum tells the history of Hydra via its archival materials, including old maps of crucial sea battles, captains’ uniforms, grants of passage, and many other artifacts peculiar to the island’s maritime heritage.

Housed in an impressive stone mansion once belonging to a ship-owner Gikas Koulouras, the building and its surroundings are worth a visit.

Bastions

This open-air museum is actually a place where the cannons of Hydra protected the harbor entrance from the invading armies.

On exhibit are the original cannons that nowadays point toward the most amazing summer sunsets!

3. Melina Merkouri Auditorium (The Exhibition and Concert Municipal Hall Melina Merkouri)

Another magnificent stone mansion of the past that has been turned cultural center and is named after the Greek actress, politician, and human rights activist Melina Merckouri.

Merkouri is remembered not only for her contribution to Greek modern history and democracy but also for her role in the movie Phaedra shot in 1962 around the island of Hydra with Anthony Perkins as her co-star.

4. Church of the Assumption of the Virgin and the Ecclesiastical Museum

This complex is located in the Hydra harbor, just behind the clock tower.

The location was the original monastery from the 17th century and later a prison, which is now a museum safeguarding valuable Orthodox icons and other religious artifacts.

5. Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion

This is my favorite historical palace of Hydra, housing a museum of the influential Koundouriotis family.

In this striking yellow multilevel mansion, you will get all of Hydra on a plate: a taste of the lifestyle of a wealthy 18th and 19th-century marine merchant family, and be able to buy some art and souvenirs in the museum shop.

Besides the magnificent weapons, furniture, traditional clothing, and paintings, do not miss the imposing kitchen in the basement.

6. Monastery of Prophet Elias and nunnery of Agia Efpraxia

After a 2-hour uphill hike from the town (I kid you not) and just shy of 100 meters below Hydra’s highest peak on Mt. Eros, you will find this tranquil ecclesiastical complex.

The Monastery played an important role in the Greek War of Independence and contains has a library of rare books.

7. DESTE Foundation Project Space

A former slaughterhouse is not the center of Greece’s art world. Annual Hydra exhibits are housed at this place, where the artist for 2022 was none other than Jeff Koons.

One of his sculptures (The Apollo Sun) remains on permanent display in Hydra.

8. Tetsis Home Atelier and Museum

House museum of painter Panagiotis Tetsis from a generation-old Hydriot family is my second favorite museum on the island and a place where you start craving your own Hydra home.

This simple yet elegant house was the artist’s atelier and his family’s grocery store for decades before he turned it to the Greek National Historical Museum’s Historical and Ethnological Society a few years before his death. Not to be missed.

9. Hydra Art School – Hydra School Projects

Beginning in 2000, an annual exhibition of up-and-coming Greek and international artists’ work is held in the former Hydra High School building.

Another thing not to be missed when wandering the town!  

Also not to be missed:

Hydra Merchant Marine Academy (housed in Tsamadou Mansion)
Monastery of Agia Triada, Monastery of Agia Matrona
and the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos (all in the Mandraki area)

10. Let the world go by in Hydra’s port

Hydra is famous for its people-watching locals and cosmopolitan shopping in designers’ ateliers and art galleries, followed by a coffee or a sunset cold drink in one of its famous bars, like Pirate Bar or Papagalos.

Do not miss this little Hydra ritual while watching the boats waiting for customers to ferry around this small island.

11. Swimming and Beaches

Hydra is not your typical Greek island when it comes to swimming and beaches.

The deep blue Aegean Sea surrounding Hydra means only one sandy beach is available, but the rock or pebble ones are second to none, especially those you need a water taxi to reach.

Make sure to go through Milos’s article on Hydra beaches, so you don’t miss the best tips about Hydronetta or Spilia beaches close to the town, or further along – Avlaki beach, Kamini beach (with small boats moored nearby), Plakes Vlychos beach and other more remote beaches.

He’s invested a lot of time swimming and sunning himself at the beaches (all in the name of research of course!)

12. Artists’ Trail

Wandering around Hydra can lead to some unexpected places, including a house that Leonard Cohen bought for himself in the 50s and lived in for years.

It was here he created some of his most memorable songs, including Marianne.

Nowadays, it belongs to his family and the local community has paid its respects to his memory by naming the street the house is on in his name.

On the opposite side of the town, you can find the Charmian Clift house, on a small piazzetta with a blue well cover.

13. Hiking paths

Hydra is a paradise for hikers. Wooden posts and yellow and black signs mark the trails leading from the town to the island’s many monasteries, secluded beaches, and former settlements.

The best time to hike in Hydra is around the Easter season when the island’s usually barren crust is turned to carpets of spring flowers in blossom.

Some of my favorite hikes are the ones to Profitis Ilias Monastery or the Byzantine town of Episkopi.  

14. Visit Kamini and Vlychos

A scenic coastal road leads from the Hydra port to Kamini and Vlychos villages. These small settlements adjoin Hydra’s town and offer lovely swimming and dining options.

Along the coastal road, you will come across an abandoned windmill and a sculpture of a boy on a dolphin, paying homage to a 1956 movie in which Sophia Loren plays a Hydriot woman.

The movie made Hydra world famous.

One bend away on the coastal path is a very nice restaurant called Techne (a short walk from the small beach of Avlaki).

Kamini is a small colorful harbor with a pebbly beach and a former fort that has been turned into a luxury hotel and bar, called Castello.

Vlychos is the next settlement along the road that you can get to by foot or by water taxi. Besides nice swimming, it has one of Hydra’s best family-owned tavernas, the famous Taverna Marina.

15. Go Horseriding

If you are not a keen hiker but still want to explore Hydra, horseriding is the way to go. It’s been a real drawcard for me

Make sure to talk to Harriett, from Harriet’s Hydra Horses, a born Brit and bred Hydriot, who is not only very knowledgeable about the island but also a great caretaker of the island’s animals.

16. Enjoy the Hydronetta panoramic views and sunsets

The sunsets from Hydra town are magical when the golden hour paints the island in shades of gold.

The best spot to watch the sunset, if not on the sea, is the Hydronetta bar on the rocks below the windmill with a cocktail in your hand.

17. Explore Hydra’s rich gastronomy

Hydra is a popular island and its gastronomy options reflect that.

You will find great food everywhere, from:

bakeries within walking distance from the port and fast food gyros joints (Kai Kremmidi is my favorite),
traditional tavernas like Marina in Mandraki and Lulus in Hydra town,
upscale tavernas with Greek classics with a twist like Xeri Elia, Giasemi, and Kryfo Limani
seafood, fresh fish, and gourmet restaurants like Omilos, Techne, Sunset restaurant, and Mikra Anglia.

TIP: The best souvenirs from Hydra are its traditional almond and rose water sweets called amigdalota. The best are made, following traditional recipes, in Tsagaris or Anemone confectionaries.  

18. Drool over the real estate market

Hydra is one of Europe’s places with the most expensive square meterage of property! I thought Venice was expensive, but you won’t believe the property prices!

Perhaps check out the windows of real estate agencies and decide for yourself if it’s worth it.   

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