Why You Must See Rethymno, Crete [2024]

The main cities around Crete are on the northern side of the island, and between the capital of Heraklion and gorgeous Chania lies my favorite – Rethymno (also spelled Rethymnon). It’s the most authentic city on the island, a place where tourism is just one part of the picture and where Greek grandmas still have a final say in the things that really matter.

In the complete Rethymno travel guide, you’ll quickly see why you should visit Rethymno and learn where to find its obvious and hidden charms.

Crete is the biggest Greek island and many would argue a country within a country.

Its sheer size, history, and culture, alongside its unique ways of doing things, make Crete one of the finest destinations anyone having at least a week-long holiday to spare should visit.

Need to know before traveling to Rethymno, Crete

Rethymno is the third biggest city on the island, nestled between the White Mountains in the hinterland and the Mediterranean Sea on the north coast of Crete.

Just an hour’s drive away from both Heraklion (80km) and Chania (70km), the city is easy enough to reach by rental car or public bus and is still not the main target of package deal tourists as it lacks an airport.

The city is a living example of the tumultuous past of the Mediterranean region throughout history.

Ruled by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans before being included in the Greek state in the 20th century, Rethymnon is a cityscape of different heritage.

Rethymnon is one of the world’s best-preserved Venetian cities, as well as one of the best-maintained medieval cities in Greece.

Venetian legacy is obvious everywhere, from a dominating Fortezza, a castle fortification that protected the city, to the small old-town Venetian harbour or its narrow streets dotted with almost millennia-old houses and shops.  

Although being a full-scale urban settlement and a university city, the ancient town of Rethymnon has a gorgeous sandy beach, amazing views, a vibrant gastronomic scene, and fantastic opportunities for inland excursions.

A proper place to base yourself and discover Crete!

Things to see and do in Rethymno, Crete

1. Wander the old town

The old town of Rethymno is a gem in its own right, a proper maze of narrow marble-cobbled alleyways dotted with small and large townhouses, cafes, restaurants, shops, and piazzas, each having its share of overhanging bougainvilleas and vines.

People live and work in the Venetian houses and shops built during the 1200s and the architecture of the period is largely preserved.

You’ll find arched stone entrances, hidden courtyards, ancient olive trees lined along the streets ending up on smaller or larger squares with historical sites, 16th-century public buildings, museums, craftsmen’s workshops, and traditional cafes under the mulberry trees.

Rethymno must be the most picturesque town in Crete!

Just explore it on foot with frequent stops for delicious Greek food, coffee, and snacks and soak up the atmosphere of a medieval town pulsating radiantly into the 21st century.

2. Fortezza

The most significant historical and archaeological site in town is the Venetian citadel called Fortezza.

Built in 1573 on the Paleokastro hill above Rethymno, it was its ultimate protection from the dangers coming from the sea.

Starting from the imposing arched tunnel-like entrance to all the past and present structures, bastions, fortifications, storage and military vaults, cisterns, garrisons, and sea-oriented turrets, it will take a couple of hours to visit all of it.

Fortezza was the last refuge for the people of Rethymno during the Fifth Ottoman-Venetian wars, who fled from the invaders behind its protective walls, only to surrender after a short siege.

This meant that the citadel was not destroyed, only altered under the new Ottoman masters.

So, the cathedral of Saint Nicholas was turned into the mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, which stands strong even today (make sure to check out its lovely dome and Mecca-pointing mirchab).

The contemporary open-air Theatre of Erofili is also within the Fortezza walls, holding various cultural events every summer.

TIP: Since most of Fortezza is open-air, make sure to go early and avoid the heat or late in the afternoon, to catch an amazing sunset and a panoramic view of the town.

Opening hours: High season (June-September): from 8 am – 8 pm. Low season (October-May): 8 am – 5 pm. Entrance fee: €4

3. Rimondi Fountain

This gem of Venetian public architecture is set on Petychaki Square, in the heart of the Rethymno old town, surrounded by the city’s favorite cafeterias. One of many elegant examples of enduring Venetian legacy in the city.

A wonderful petite Rimondi fountain built in the classical style in 1626 during the Venetian occupation provides drinking water for almost four centuries to the inhabitants of the Old town via its three springs hidden behind lions’ heads.

Named after the then-governor, the fountain displays a Rimondi family crest and a Venetian coat of arms with lions, as well as columns with tablets reading Fonte and Liberaliatis.

4. Venetian Port and the Lighthouse

A small commercial port was built in Rethymno under Venetian occupation, only to become the third most significant port of call on the island after Heraklion and Chania.

Nowadays, it is an elegant waterfront lined with tavernas, restaurants, and bars, as well as fishermen’s boats and their tangled nets too. My favorite place for a quiet breakfast before the day of exploration.

Walk the beautiful Venetian harbour wall towards the stone lighthouse on its other end to discover how this important feature was added by the Egyptians when Ottomans handed them Crete during the early 19th century.

The top reveals interesting carved symbols.

5. Admire the Lotzia (Loggia) of Rethymno

Right by the old port, you will find the Rethymno Lotzia.

Loggias were essential buildings for public life during the Venetian period, a place functioning like an ancient agora – a gathering spot for the influential debates and discussions of the city population.

The Rethymno Loggia was built around 1540 and has been converted to a mosque during the Ottoman occupation to honor Hajji Hussein, conqueror of Rethymnon. Since 1951 it is part of the Archaeological Museum of Rethymno.

The building was constructed by one of the most famous and prolific Venetian-Veronese architects and urbanists Michele Sanmicheli, who also constructed the fortification walls of Rethymnon.

6. Porta Guora

This imposing grand gate named after a Rector (Rettore) Jocopo Guoro was once the main entrance point to the Venetian walled settlement that is now Rethymnon old town.

It is also the only part of the 16th-century city walls that is still in existence.

The great gate of Guora is a magic threshold even today, separating the modern city of Rethymno from its medieval core, marking a place where the exploration of the Rethymno old town begins.  

7. Shop around Ethnikis Antistaseos Street

Right behind Porta Guora starts one of the main arteries of the old town, the famous Ethnikis Antistaseos street, lined with shops of all kinds ever since the Venetian era.

This street, with all the adjoining narrow alleyways and piazzas, is the perfect place to do your holiday shopping or simply wander around the small shops.

If Ethnikis Antistaseos is not to your liking, check out Souliou Street with its small and cute souvenir shops, jeweler, and other artisans’ ateliers.

TIP: Near Porta Guora is a bakery called “Earth Flavors “, a great place for a quick pastry and a freddo espresso.

8. Admire the doors of Rethymno and chase the bougainvillea trail

I simply loved all the house entrances around the old town of Rethymno. All of them are centuries old, with stone arches or beams above the wooden doors, painted in various colors, and very much pride and joy of the homeowners living behind them.

If some of them are open and you spot a courtyard, peak behind. The sights might be magical.

This pride and joy is usually visible in the most stunning bougainvillea trees in front of the doors that tend to leave a bunch of their magnificent purple flowers on the marble streets of Rethymno town.

The Proper setting for making your own postcards!

9. Visit the filo (phyllo) pastry workshop of Giorgos Hatziparaschos

One of the last bakers that make the famous Greek filo (phyllo) sheets entirely by hand is Mr. Giorgos Hatziparaschos of Rethymno.

This 88-year-old master baker of 30 Vernardou Street had set his workshop in 1960 in the very same Venetian house he is still working from today.

Recently, he opened his workshop for tourists and allows visitors to observe the elaborate process of making the dough and opening the filo that is (at the end of the process) as big as his huge flour-covered tables.

TIP: Ask Mr. Giorgos when is the next time he or his son will be opening up the filo and don’t forget to buy some of his wife’s homemade syrup sweets.

10. Visit the Rethymno churches

No Greek town visit is complete without a visit to its churches.

The old town of Rethymno is no exception and I just kept on stumbling upon beautiful modern Greek and Byzantine churches along my wanderings through the old town.

Some of them have old local people sitting and chatting close by, adding the traditional charm to this closely-knit old town urban fabric.

11. Relax on the Rethymno beach

Rethymno Beach starts where the old town ends, and if you head east, you will come across a glorious sandy beach that stretches for 13 kilometers.

The beach has it all – from the easy shallow entrance and soft sand for kids, parasols, and sun loungers via beach bar service, to restaurants, showers, changing facilities, and lifeguards – and is a good option for seaside unwinding if you are not making any day trips to surrounding beaches or coves.

Alternatively, visit beautiful beaches around the picturesque Panoromos village nearby.

12. Neratze Mosque

The most evident legacy of the Ottoman occupation of Crete is the impressive building of Neratze Mosque in the heart of the old town Rethymno, with its 27-meter towering minaret.

The building dates back to 1600 when it was part of the Augustinian order monastery as the church of Santa Maria.

After the Ottoman conquest, the building was turned into a mosque, and the famous minaret was built only in 1890, during the ultimate years of Ottoman yoke in Crete.

Nowadays, it houses the Agia Galini Conservatory with concerts, music lessons, recitals, and music evenings available to the public.

13. Visit the Archaeological Museum of Rethymno

This small museum with a large collection narrates the past of the local region from Minoan, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian times.

It is set in the beautiful building that once was the church of San Francesco, built in 1530 by the influential Barozzi family.

TIP: the museum’s gift shop, located in Lotzia building further up towards the Fortezza is worth visiting.

14. Visit the Historical Folk-Art Museum of Rethymno

Another great small folklore museum, set in a 17th-century Venetian townhouse right in the heart of the old town.

The exhibition is spread around five rooms and showcases the rural and traditional life of Crete, with a special focus on the daily life of the islanders, including arts, crafts, trades, and cooking equipment. The underground level focuses on wartime exhibits, too.

TIP: After the visit, head to the Heroes of Polytechneio Square for refreshments in one of its many cafes.

15. Take a day trip around the Rethymno region

If you have a few days to spend in Rethmyno, venture into the mainland behind Rethymnon town and drive (or scooter) through the National Park forests and olive groves.

This will give you a fantastic opportunity to experience local culture in mountainous villages, see local crafts along the way, admire deserted watermills, and buy some local olive oil.

At the end of it, you’ll have a better understanding of the cultural influences left by the Turkish occupation and the Venetian era than if you’d only stayed in the old city area.

Here are my not-to-miss suggestions for a day trip out of Rethymno.

16. Arkadi Monastery

Just 20 km away to the south of Rethymno is Arkadi Monastery, a Byzantine religious complex of immense beauty and historical significance.

In the center of it stands the 16th-century church built under the influence of the Renaissance, with both Roman and baroque elements devoted to Saints Constantine and Helen.

A monastery is a sacred place in Crete for its part in Greek independence wars when a group of Cretan Greek freedom fighters defied the overwhelming Ottoman force by refusing to surrender, setting powder kegs to fire, and blowing up both themselves and the Ottomans.

A special permanent exhibition is devoted to this event that took place in 1866.

There is also a beautiful small on-site (air-conditioned) museum that tells the story of the monastery throughout the ages.

Opening hours: June-August: from 9 am – 8 pm. For other months, check their website (arkadimonastery.gr). Entrance fee: €3

17. Preveli Monastery

There is another historic monastery in the region well worth a visit. It is on the south coast of the island, some 36 kilometers away from Rethymno town, and a perfect spot to go to in case you rent a car.

This remote 17th-century monastery was built on the rocky hills above the Libyan Sea and was the local educational and medical hub for the local population during the period of Ottoman rule.

The well-decorated church is devoted to Saint John the Theologian.

During World War II and the German occupation of Greece, Preveli Monastery played a crucial role in the resistance fight, providing shelter for more than 5000 Allied soldiers fighting the Battle of Crete.

A monument called Preveli International Memorial for Resistance and Peace was erected in 2002 to commemorate the enduring importance of Preveli Monastery for the Cretan people.

A wonderful small museum within the Monastery contains magnificent icons as well as other ecclesiastical and mundane artifacts from the monastery’s rich past.

Opening hours: Summer months: from 9 am – 6 pm. For other months, it is until 5 pm, but better call them to confirm the date you want to go. Entrance fee: €4

18. Preveli Beach

Part of the Preveli complex is the famous Preveli beach and lagoon (known as Palm Beach, too), a beautiful sandy beach where the Kourtaliotis River meets the Libyan Sea dotted with dozens of big palm trees.

TIP: Neither tourist facilities nor sunbeds are available, but two very pretty bars are available if you follow the river upstream.

One if Gefyra Taverna Cafe, right next to an old stone bridge, and the other one is The Banana Garden, a beautiful, completely natural setting where the hosts/owners make fresh smoothies from their freshly picked fruits. You even have to cross a small wooden suspension bridge to reach it.  

19. Kourtaliotiko Gorge

Just a half an hour’s drive (25 km) away from Rethymno, near the picturesque village of Koxare and passing near several archaeological sites along the way, is the stunning windswept Kourtaliotiko Gorge.

It’s a natural beauty with 40-meter-high waterfalls, crystal clear rapids, natural plunge pools, and a small church devoted to Saint Nicholas. You can descend the gorge following very comfortable steps from the main road, thus avoiding any hiking. Again, no tourist facilities are available.

TIP: Parking the car is a bit tricky, as you are leaving it on the edge of the main road. Be careful.

20. Ancient Eleutherna site

Eleutherna (known also as Apollonia) was an ancient city-state of Crete and now is the most important archaeological site in the Rethymno region.

The on-site museum and archaeological park showcase artifacts from the Eleutherna site as well as from the necropolis of Orthi Petra.

Striking is the Eleutherna Bridge, a limestone ancient Greek corbel arch bridge that is still in use.

TIP: Being just 8km away from Arkadi Monastery, combine the two into a single-day trip. 

Where to Stay in Rethymno Town